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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I bought a new XDS 9 and I love how accurate and ergonomic it is. However, the weapon failed to return to battery about 20 times out of 150 rounds of live fire. After some research I've found this is a fairly common problem. Has anyone found a fix to this issue? Thanks for your time.
 

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Okay, first I'm going to say that I know nothing about this particular gun. That said, speaking generally about similar issues, it could be, in no particular order:


  1. poor quality ammo. Likely only if it is cheap reloaded ammo.
  2. weak recoil spring. try replacing it. see if there is a stronger recoil spring available.
  3. thumb or fingers dragging on slide.
  4. actual model specific issue - return to Springfield for correction.
  5. magazine not seated fully, or being partially released while firing.
  6. Insufficient lubrication and/or dirt. strip, clean, lube, and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I've done a through degrease, cleaning, and lube of all critical components before firing (rails, striker mechanism, striker channel, metal contact points, and ran a bore snake through it twice) and still had these issues. I'm thinking the recoil spring is too weak to consistently return it to battery or the extractor is way to tight.
 

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Hmmm... If it were spring and/or extractor, then dropping the slide with a round in the mag would fail to get it into battery. A simple test. If that succeeds, then you're ammo is too wimpy, or you have a finger dragging on the slide, or some internal hangup. Auto's tend to prefer ammo on the hot side. I don't believe in "break-in period" with modern guns. You don't want to be "breaking-in" something (that would otherwise take one gentle pass with a stone) by firing full power rounds.

For example: The Smith & Wesson 22A is an inexpensive 22lr target pistol. In order to keep the price down, S&W pretends that the tool used to cut the bore is a magic wand. In fact, it tends to leave the bore quite rough. The buyer has a choice; Either put 1000 rounds through it, or spend 15 seconds pushing a patch with a tiny bit of metal polish through the barrel repeatedly from the breech end. Both procedures will turn the gun into a never-fouling tack driver. Which procedure makes sense?
 

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For example: The Smith & Wesson 22A is an inexpensive 22lr target pistol. In order to keep the price down, S&W pretends that the tool used to cut the bore is a magic wand. In fact, it tends to leave the bore quite rough. The buyer has a choice; Either put 1000 rounds through it, or spend 15 seconds pushing a patch with a tiny bit of metal polish through the barrel repeatedly from the breech end. Both procedures will turn the gun into a never-fouling tack driver. Which procedure makes sense?
It would be funner to shoot the 1,000 rounds. :D
 

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Nooooooooooo! I thought I was pushing the new "Hate this post" button!!! Aaaarrrrggghhhh... My coffee must have passed it's sell-by date and turned into LSD. It does that, you know. Seriously.
 

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I don't know that this is a common problem with the XDs line of guns.
I have the XDs .45 - 3.3 and the XDs 9 - 4.0 never had an issue with either one. Both eat any ammo I feed them with no problems. This gun has a small frame so it's easy to get a finger or thumb in the wrong place.
A couple times my thumbs got in the way of the slide release and the slide did not lock back after the last round. This was my fault and not caused by any issues with the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The XDS is running 100% after pushing past 225 rounds (my range session was between 150-275 rounds total on the XDS). I can also now press check the XDS and it will return to battery each time. Out of the mags I ran through 150-275 I had 4 slide lock after last round failures; however, this is not a concern to me since i exclusively use the overhand changing method.

This is the longest break-in period I've ever had with a handgun but I feel this is the perfect daily carry pistol for my lifestyle (Active, with two kids, i needed a pistol with multiple safety options: holster, trigger safety, and backstrap safety).

I'm am excited to put this in my daily carry rotation
 

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It would be interesting to hear about any wear you can find to account for the "break-in". Something had to give, and it would be interesting to know *what*, so that other folks can maybe apply a bit of judicious sandpaper to cure the problem.
 

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Would it not be a good idea if, when you purchased a new gun that had an issue such as this, you went ahead and disassembled the weapon and checked all parts for burrs and made sure surfaces were flat and parallel? Quality in Engineering and production are not necessarily equal!
 

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Would it not be a good idea if, when you purchased a new gun that had an issue such as this, you went ahead and disassembled the weapon and checked all parts for burrs and made sure surfaces were flat and parallel? Quality in Engineering and production are not necessarily equal!
Yes, definitely. Even a very fine gun can have finishing issues... Maybe the guy who files the right forward corner of the hammer was hungover on the day your gun went through? As some people here are probably starting to figure out, I don't believe in "break-in", except under very specific conditions that only apply to custom guns that are very highly tuned.

Any first-class 'smith will tell you that a 1970's Colt 1911 is a great platform to build on, but likely to have serious problems with finish on the inside surfaces of the slide and frame. My own experience with a NIB 1975 Gold Cup bore this out. Same thing with my 2011 made SA Mil-Spec SS. Recent SA 1911's have all been really extraordinary out of the box.

My Hoag Mastergrade gun had an unfinished chamber (Proving that it was never fired!)! I had to ream it for a couple of hours (by hand) to cut the chamber to match the barrel-to-frame fit. My FA needed the front sight regulated. If you want a gun guaranteed to be out-of-the-box perfect, buy a NIB S&W or Colt made before WWII. I'm not kidding. That's what I do every chance I get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I believe it had something to do with the extractor. When it wouldn't go into battery, with a live round in the chamber after a press check, I could depress the extractor and it would let the slide seat all the way forward. There were no issues with the slide returning to battery without a round in the chamber. Other than that, I have no clues to what caused it.
 

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I have had to stone extractors and extractor channels on several external extractor guns. It takes very little stoning to make them reliable. The extractor could "break in" through wear, or it could break. Some guns will extract even with the extractor hook broken off!
 

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