Springfield Armory Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
The diagram on the lower left drawing is what to go for. A radius may be preferable to the angled end of the sear nose. Assemble the pistol and put it in a vise with soft jaws and setup your indicator on the back of the hammer with the magnetic base on the vise. Cock it, set the indicator to zero and as you pull the trigger see if the hammer cams back or starts to fall away. The preferred situation is a slight camming of the trigger back prior to it breaking. The radius on the front of the sear nose if done properly will give it a smooth rolling break. Be sure you re-harden the sear nose if you suspect you cut it deep enough to get into soft metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK thanks going to check to make sure hammer hooks are square once mire maybe. Run sear under the stone a few more times and check my angles. The trigger feels good right now it's a little bit tight it's definitely not under 4 pounds however there is ZERO creep now which makes the trigger feel very crisp. I'm just going to check my engagement again to make sure it's safe before I test it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just sent my long beach back to Springfield enough fooling around ...6-8 weeks is what I was told and she should be back with a new 4lb trigger job with new internals
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top