Flat wire recoil springs
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Go to Wilson Combat and buy the kit and get a mi-spec end cap you will not regret it. They last 40,000 rounds so you will have reliable performance for years instead of having to replace the standard springs every 5,000 rounds.
http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wire-Recoil-Spring-Kit-Full-Size-45-ACP/productinfo/614/
http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wire-Recoil-Spring-Kit-Full-Size-45-ACP/productinfo/614/
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103 Posts
I ordered the 17lb kit with guide rod included. Only thing I didn't like is the idea of stepping down from my factory 18.5lb spring for a lighter spring. Wilson reps claim I can use the standard plug just need the smaller guide rod. Does this sound right to you?
That is the setup I have in my Loaded 45 1911 and it works fine with all my ammo from target loads to 230 grain Winchester White Box. I went to the enclosed plug because the Loaded has an open ended plug for the full length guide rod and would let dirt in.
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103 Posts
I have the Long Beach operator which came with the GI style guide rod and standard plug. So I should be ok then correct? Do you think there's any cause for concern in regards to battering and beating up the frame with a lighter coil spring in my 18 and a half?
The end plug should work fine then. The 17 pound spring won't hurt your gun. We commonly run springs down to 14 pounds in our steel frame 45 ACP 1911's and put lots of rounds through them. Just remember to run the rails wet and you should get years of service from it.
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103 Posts
Thanks for the tips. I've been using EWG extreme weapons grease on the rails and believe me it looks like it fell in a jar of Vaseline I've always believed it was a mis the over lubrication story. It's not like there's pressure built up anything excess will just spit out and make a mess in my opinion but a dry weapon will definitely wear out and destroy itself. Well thanks for the advice in the tips it looks like my tracking number is telling me that my Wilson kit will be in tomorrow along with my Pachmayr grips and then I'm just waiting on Springfield Custom Shop to send home my baby with a brand new tool steel and hammer job
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103 Posts
I've had nothing but success with grease. Believe it or not a product that actually performs the way it is advertised at least in my experiences over the past couple of years. Then again my guns are pretty tight so they might just not allowed dirt in the rail but I've never found anything in there in fact really all I've had to do was clean the board and reassemble the gun but me being the perfectionist that I am I completely clean and disassemble every 500 rounds. I've tried oil on my commanding officer and I wasn't too comfortable with the experience but I was using Hoppe's gun lube. Sig Sauer introduced me 20 white grease the name slipped my memory but after using it and running it for a while I ended up going with a different form of grease.
Stainless is hard to lube but if the crud in your gun doesn't stay loose and float out of the crevices any type of metal will gall. The idea of lubrication of semi-autos is using enough oil to keep flinging or washing the crud out and putting more on when that stops happening. Grease tends to trap fouling or little chips of brass which is what I generally find when I have to tap a gun apart that is dragging badly.
I looked at a friends new Springfield a few hours ago at the range and he uses grease. The little particles of brass off the cases have embedded themselves in the metal in the rails and now he is trying to get them out with a stainless steel brush before anything too weird happens. If they catch an edge and lift they can cause problems. He went to get some Mobil 1 like most of us use.
Pull the slide off and put 7or 8 drops in each rail and the same on the frame. Reassemble it and wipe off the excess. When it begins to look dry during long shooting sessions reapply oil to the rails with the muzzle down and the slide locked back. Wipe off the excess and keep going. Many competitive shooters use ATF too.
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