Anybody have the Crimson trace grips on an EMP? I'm wondering what you think about the grips. I put some on. I'm not sure I like them. They are thicker but very nice feeling. The awkward thing is the switch under my middle finger. Anyone else tried them?
Crimson trace grips for an EMP?
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The middle pad of my middle finger rests on top of the on switch. But it doesn't activate the laser. Instead I end up pressing on it with the tip of my finger which works fine. But then I lose concentration on my trigger finger. I must look funny at the range. Gun raised, laser comes on with my middle finger tip on the switch. Then the laser goes off as I resume a normal grip. The pistol fires. During the recoil the laser comes back on as i tighten my grip to control the pistol. The laser traces wild red polygons across the target and beyond. "What's wrong with him?" People whisper under their breath.
By the way, I failed to tighten the grips screws sufficiently during installation. Lost one screw and had three more quite loose after 175 rounds. The very nice people at SA are sending me replacements no charge; no questions.
By the way, I failed to tighten the grips screws sufficiently during installation. Lost one screw and had three more quite loose after 175 rounds. The very nice people at SA are sending me replacements no charge; no questions.
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I've got them on my Bersa .380 and like them.
I decided to send my grip back to CTC to evaluate the switch. The laser certainly doesn't work with my own natural grip on the EMP. It takes a very strong squeeze from my 3rd finger. In the meantime I suppose I will not be able during a foggy night to impress an intruder with the steadiness of my aim.
Reinstalled. Noticing two gaps by the switch where the rubber wraps around the front of the frame. It seems like it was designed for a wider frame pistol. (See where the forceps are pointing?)
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Is that normal? Also measured the force needed to activate the switch: approximately 10 ounces. Then I tried to see how long I could grip the pistol tight enough to keep the laser on continuously. I falter after 10-15 secs from muscle fatigue if I try hard a couple times and before that if I'm not thinking about it.
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Any thoughts? Am I just a 10 oz weakling?
Is that normal? Also measured the force needed to activate the switch: approximately 10 ounces. Then I tried to see how long I could grip the pistol tight enough to keep the laser on continuously. I falter after 10-15 secs from muscle fatigue if I try hard a couple times and before that if I'm not thinking about it.
Any thoughts? Am I just a 10 oz weakling?
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I don't have any way of checking the pressure required to activate it on my Bersa Thunder but it comes on when I don't want it to just by picking it up and everytime I just hold it. I've had people comment that they had to "squeeze it" to get it to come on so I couldn't tell you for sure,seems easy to me and that's all that matters to me since I'll be the one using it regularly 
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.HMMMM . . . .I have a Kimber Ultra Crimson Carry II. the grips are wood and polymer.... the on/off switch is in same
place as yours. The pressure switch is under the middle finger.
A normal firm firing grip will turn it on so i have to move finger down or make an effort to lift slightly the middle finger.
Also added night sights so i have the option of either as needed. good shooter !
The gap pointed too has no effect and is not an error.....the pressure switch location is directly supported.
If it were mine . . .i would get a medium grit, board type, finger nail file (remove grip from gun) and sand down
the seam above, below and on the pressure switch. Make it more flush with the area around.
That seam will make it feel "more stiff"
place as yours. The pressure switch is under the middle finger.
A normal firm firing grip will turn it on so i have to move finger down or make an effort to lift slightly the middle finger.
Also added night sights so i have the option of either as needed. good shooter !
The gap pointed too has no effect and is not an error.....the pressure switch location is directly supported.
If it were mine . . .i would get a medium grit, board type, finger nail file (remove grip from gun) and sand down
the seam above, below and on the pressure switch. Make it more flush with the area around.
That seam will make it feel "more stiff"
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I have them on mine. Worthless. Like Newmey says. Lost three grip screws two while firing, one just fell out along the way somewhere. Putting the original wood grips back on (look better anyway) with a new set of screws, and probably selling the Crimson Trace laser grips.
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Came across this thread while troubleshooting the CT lasergrips on my EMP; thought I would share my experience.
I cannot activate the laser with my normal grip. I can activate the laser after shifting my grip down slightly. But, like Newmey, I have to consciously squeeze the activation pad. And, like Newmey, I tend to relax the squeeze as I shift my attention to the trigger.
I have CT lasergrips my Mil-Spec 1911, Ruger SP101, and two Bersa Firestorms. None of them are difficult to activate like the EMP lasergrips.
I’ve gone back to the original Cocobolo grips. Partially because of having to adjust my grip and the laser being difficult to actuate, but also because the lasergrips fatten the grip considerably as compared to the svelte OEM thin line grips.
I cannot activate the laser with my normal grip. I can activate the laser after shifting my grip down slightly. But, like Newmey, I have to consciously squeeze the activation pad. And, like Newmey, I tend to relax the squeeze as I shift my attention to the trigger.
I have CT lasergrips my Mil-Spec 1911, Ruger SP101, and two Bersa Firestorms. None of them are difficult to activate like the EMP lasergrips.
I’ve gone back to the original Cocobolo grips. Partially because of having to adjust my grip and the laser being difficult to actuate, but also because the lasergrips fatten the grip considerably as compared to the svelte OEM thin line grips.
Mine were fine...
But they were thick.
Took them off after I got mine milled for an RMRcc and put stoner G10 grips on.
The red dot is way faster and accurate further out.
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